Sunday 5 March 2006

"You can drive in India without brakes, but never without a horn!" - Mukesh the cabbie

Time for another email from India, this one dated 5th March 2006.
Previous emails are here and here.


The pictures were taken but weren't actually sent at the time but I have culled them from my Facebook page.

"Hey everyone!
I'm gonna keep this one mercifully short! Not much time left and I just saw how long my last one was and it scared me! We are now in a place called Jaisalmer near to Pakistan. We met a dude called Stuart a coupla days ago and went camel trekking into the desert with him for a coupla days - camping out beneath the stars surrounded by the surprising amount of wildlife in the desert was great if a little uncomfortable! I like camels - they look like they're made of all the bits God had left over! Maybe from his Big Bucket O' Knees. Started reading Metamorphosis by Kafka whilst sat on a dune, and then all these black beetles appeared on the edges of my vision. Wasn't my mind playing tricks. As big as my thumb, they seem to dig in for the night and look very cute - kinda like a dog when it kicks dirt over where it's just pooed! Well I think that's kinda cute anyway. Then we had an 8hr bus ride to here, in a bunk that was a coupla inches too short, with a driver going hell for leather with no suspension! Fun! (where does the phrase "Hell for Leather" come from? If anyone knows, do tell) But out hotel here has an outdoor pool!

A beetle busily burrowing.
 Jaisalmer is great - there's a wonderful old fort at the top of the hill with great views of the town that is made entirely of sandstone (i think its sandstone!) and the fort has loads of winding little streets, hemmed in by ornately carved buildings, some are houses, some temples, and loads of colourful stalls selling textiles, paintings, books, food! Wonderful - so pretty!
Anyway - we need to pick up our pace a bit so we're hotfooting it to Jodhpur tomorro. Think I'm gonna watch a puppet show tonight, and maybe having an Ayurverdic massage tomorrow! Dunno what it is but I want one!

EEEKKKK!!! Literally, in the last 30 seconds, a group of 6 or so Indian transvestites, all be-togged in brightly coloured sarees piled into this tiny little internet cafe, and molested my head!!! They were all feeling my hair, pulling it (a little too hard!) to see if it was real, and as they all poured back outside, one of em kissed my hair! That has to be one of the more odd experiences I've had in India! Welcome to my Indian life!

My favourite road sign this week - A sign pointing the way to a school teaching: "PMT - AAAIIIEEE". I'd just LOVE to know...
Have fun all!

(This email has been short-ER)

Sandra: It's the same price for you to text me as normal. And you DO sound like a hippy!

Becky: You sound very busy! Hope you're enjoying yourself?

Jec: Don't say that! I'd kill for a vodka and coke right now!The food is great - the best food was the stuff the camel-men cooked for us while we were out in the desert!

Jen B: Thank you for your email - it made me laugh! Please send more - I loved it. The company was called Impact - is yours called Deep Impact? I'm sure you'll find something contemporary! Knock em dead! Oh - sounds like nothings changed for BSA!

Stephanie: Thankyou for a wonderful email! Truly a joy to read - send more! I just chatted to Wei - she sounds bubbly! I wanna chat to a psychopath! Chilling!

Matt: That IS an electric bill run up something really crazy! Made me laugh a little too much for a small internet cafe!

Ree: Didn't get the attached pic - what was it?

Jen R: I read the Time Travellers Wife - really liked it! Quite beautiful!

Claire: Will burn you KMFDM when I get back! Heard someone say Adios today and I remembered it!

Olly: Hello???"

 




I remember all of this surprisingly well!
Ah yes! Those transvestites! I remember being surprised that they were tolerated in India. Someone fairly soon afterward told me that that is their shtick, They travel around in groups making something of a public spectacle of themselves until someone pays them to leave. They are very much frowned upon and low down in social standing.
And I also seem to remember almost not making it to Jodhpur, but more of that next time.


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